Выкройка скорее всего имеет, так как в итоге она схожа с кроем дублетов 15 века.
А кроме пурпуэнов встречаются и другие изображения верхней одежды.
Хольгер, кстати вполне возможно что именно подкладывали, а не использовали доп.аксессуар "набивная грудь".
Что пишут про простеганность:
1360-ish Pourpoint of Charles of Blois. Lyon, Musee Historique des Tissues
Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince (source of the photo to the left) states:
In what is in effect a padded doublet, its outer layer of splendid silk patterned with gold, the padding has been so disposed that it enlarges the chest, and, by the closeness of its fit to below the hips, it must have maintained a corset-like grip round the body below the waist. Its sleeves are set onto the body part in the manner known as the grande assiette.
Есть и другое мнение:
A contrasting opinion, from Paul Lalonde, on the H-costume list:
Now, I, like many other 14th century geeks, have memorized the photos, not to say the cut of the thing, but have been unable to adequately explain the way it looks quilted.
Mystery no more: It's NOT. The puffy, quilted, look is an artefact of conservation - some kind soul carefully stitched the unlined garment onto another fabric to give it support, causing the horizontal puffing up that makes it look quilted. The elbows look funky for similar reasons, as the arms are filled not with a human-shaped form, but with a pile of stuffing that neatly fills the available space.
И что говорят в музее:
A visitor to my web pages was interested in this aspect, and wrote to the museum to ask if the quilting was as a result of conservation; they wrote back:
"I had confirmation from the person who did the conservation that the pourpoint was originally quilted with cotton. Very cordially, Vincent Cros, Bibliothèque Centre de Documentation, Musée des tissus et Musée des Arts décoratifs de Lyon"
